Direct and steep, the trail does not mess around. The exposure wasn't terrific, but it got your attention just the same.
We decided to go straight into Jackson to drop of the canoes. With our thirst and hunger momentarily quenched we then headed back to the Climbers Ranch for some showers. It was evident he was very well trained and I felt secure whenever we roped up for certain stretches. Just as we were about to reach the lower CMC camp we met a pair of climbers coming down. Mt. Consequently our progress wasn't quite as straight and efficient as it could have been. One of the climbers had been doing most of the talking but as they got ready to depart the other warned us about incoming storms and dangerous weather. After a quick break we headed back down to camp. We looked down at our watch and it was 10:50. Having had minimal technical climbing experience prior... If you are a resident of another country or region, please select the appropriate version of Tripadvisor for your country or region in the drop-down menu. --Albert Schweitzer, Approach and route via the CMC.
Eventually he made his way down to the final rappel station. This was encouraging. Unfortunately the summit log looked more like a bunch of used tissue so we didn't bother to sign it. Since I was already carrying most of the rack Barry stayed behind to carry the rope after Eric made it down. Respect wildlife: Do not approach or feed animals. Instead I decided to forgo the extra knot and just go for it.
Crossing over the top of the gully involved a couple of tricky moves for which I put my rock climbing shoes back on. Like the Middle Teton in the same range, Mount Moran's face is marked by a distinctive basalt intrusion known as the Black Dike. To climb the CMC route, first hike to the summit of Drizzlepuss, descend into the notch between Drizzlepuss and the east face of Moran, then climb the east face of Moran. We got to the canoe put-in just as alpine glow bathed the Grand, Owen, and Teewinot. Do not bury or burn them. However, neither of us have done this route. I found my way to the notch that we had crossed during the first pitch this morning and instead of staying high across the slabs I traversed down below them. The favored summer rock route is the CMC, a long moderate technical climb. We ruled out the offwidth crack as too difficult and hard to protect. The CMC has much more sustained climbing—albeit easier—than the usual routes on the Grand Teton. Aconcagua mountain page is a child of the 'Aconcagua Group' and the 'Seven Summits.' There was a section of steep scrambling to accomplish in order to gain a ridge and it took Eric and I several tries, at several different routes, before we found a relatively easy one. Arranged for a guide for a day hike to Disappointment Peak.
In reality the weather was absolutely perfect. My feet wouldn't have survived the day without them and I'm so thankful Barry let me borrow his shoes. Nate and Chase were fantastic guides. We were probably at least half way down the route at this point. (216), Climber's Log Entries It gets steeper a couple of hundred feet above the notch at Drizzlepus. We searched for our grumpy friend from a couple of mornings ago to ask him how "the alpine world" was during our absence but we never saw him again. CMC Route- Mt Moran 12,605’ II, 5.5.  The easy part of the approach was over and now we were in for a 3,000 vertical foot grunt up to CMC Camp. This first rappel was only 100' but was a little awkward as we had to angle way over to skier's right to get to the next rappel station. I'm glad I got to follow that pitch! The CMC name is from the Chicago Mountaineering Club whose members Paul Petzoldt, Joseph Hawkes, Earl Clark, and Harold Plumley, made the first ascent of the route on June 25, 1941. (2), Images After about 10-15 vertical feet we were back on familiar terrain that we had downclimbed earlier that morning and in another five minutes we joined Eric and Alan on the top of Drizzlepuss. They also told us to expect to spend ten hours on the face. The climbing was easy and fun so that I didn't have to concentrate on the moves to much.
He belayed me up and he handed what little pro and draws he had left. It took us about two and half hours to get down to Leigh Lake as opposed to the four hours it took us to reach CMC Camp on the way up. When I made it down to Barry Alan had already taken off on the downclimb. As I began the short walk my feet rebelled. The first was a just a couple hundred feet from the high camp. We slid our canoes into String Lake, loaded up our gear into trash bags, and set off. Photo by Alan Ellis, Fred Beckey's Great Peaks of the Continent, Benighted on the Direct South Buttress, Mount Moran, Routes Eric and I gave Barry and Alan all our water carrying vessels and set off. It had taken us roughly four hours since leaving the canoes to reach the upper CMC camp and it felt great to drop our packs. I'm planning a trip to the Tetons this September to summit Mt Moran via the classic CMC route. We joked and chatted as we made final preparations and just as we were about to head out we heard a grumpy voice from the adjoining cabin shout, "Would you guys keep it down!
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